Fitting side carpets   www.aerocyclecars.com

As an introduction though, why not go to the Blog overview first.

Just the one photo for this update.

An unusual idea this one, but one I've been thinking about for some time. Here we see one of the main side panels, the LHS panel to which I've stuck down pieces of automotive carpet. Sticking carpets to the side panels once they are in situ and fully bonded to the chassis, can be a messy problem. I carefully measured and marked out side carpet pieces, in fact I've cut aluminium templates for repetition. You need to allow for the 25mm box section top and bottom side rails and for around the verticals and the welded plates through which the exhaust side pipes bolt up. Notice where I've placed masking tape to avoid overspray of the contact adhesive. Once done, offer up the panel holding it on with either cleko pins or clamps and check any exposed bare aluminium sections, then remove the panel and run a "bead" of black paint around the edges of the carpet pieces to "mask" any small areas of bare aluminium. 

I used to offer internal side panels covered in vinyl with a pocket, you could have these made up yourself at a later date if you wish, but the carpet set within the 25mm box section rails allows just a tiny bit of extra hip room.

                                    Fitting the bonnet catches   www.aerocyclecars.com

As an introduction though, why not go to the Blog overview first.

These are magnificent chrome on brass hand made vintage style bonnet catches made by a small workshop in Lancashire England. Only this type will pass the UK MSVA test due to the fully radiused nature of them.

Now, the first thing to do prior to locating these is to ensure the fit of the bonnet halves which will have been hinged by me. Correctly locating them is to bolt in the hinge pintles and ensure that the nose cone is correctly spaced. The nose cone has slots enabling it to move fore and aft, however, you might wish/need to enlarge these accordingly.

The next thing to do is to mark a line from the front edge of the bonnet as can be seen above, from the edge of the nose cone, back to the edge of the scuttle where the bonnet touches. Then mark a line in front of the first one, 15mm from the first line.

Then mark the bonnet halves as below:

For the front catch, mark the front of the bonnet halves with a co-ordinate 50mm in from the front edge and 85mm from the lower edge of the bonnet, draw a horizontal line. Disregard the upper line shown above. Centre the catch knob, then drill holes accordingly through the bonnet. Note, I have used M5 socket button head screws with nylock nuts and washers on the rear. You might want to rivet these catches. SBH screws allow you to move the catch around a little to centre it.

Having fitted the top catch/latch, draw down the knob centre line and extend it at right angles to the upper deck aluminium plate as shown above, then centre up the main catch mechanism and drill holes accordingly. The holes in the catch plate and mechanism are 4mm so you will need to drill these out to say 5mm or 5.5mm (allowing for movement) if using M5 SBH screws.

This shot clearly shows the upper catch and the knob centred up on the vertical line.

Here we are at the rear catch point. We now need to use the following measurements/co-ordinates:

A vertical line drawn 50mm in from the rear edge of the bonnet, and a horizontal line 65mm up from the bonnet lower edge.

Note that the main mechanism is then located below the bottom edge of the aluminium top deck trim strip. I haven't shown the side panel fitted at this stage, but of course, you will be fixing through the side panel and into the horizontal top chassis member. I have used riv-nuts and therefore M5 SBH screws, but you might well wish to use rivets. I would advise obtaining a riv nut tool...they are invaluable for all kinds of jobs.  

                                      Fitting the clutch cable   www.aerocyclecars.com

As an introduction though, why not go to the Blog overview first.

You would think that fitting a clutch cable would be pretty simple. Well it would be if the cable was the right length. I had a batch made by my usual supplier and when I went to fit this one found the inner cable had been made too short.

I then discovered that the company making the cables now use a thicker inner cable, so the slot in the front plate of the pedal box was incorrect and now needed filing wider. Initially I tapped an 8mm hole in the plate then decided to drill the thread out as the cable adjuster has a pair of nuts and washers, so these will clamp up to the front plate.

The clutch cable has a long adjuster and a short adjuster. Fit the short adjuster to the pedal box. Here you can see the cable fitting into the slot in the top of the clutch pedal.

Here is the shorter top adjuster. Once fitted, adjust up to position the clutch cable so that it is level with the brake pedal once it has been connected to the brake master cylinder. Ensure that you have good travel with the clutch pedal. What will cause the pedal to foul is having fitted bolts to the LHS of the pedal box to the chassis, that are too long, so check this.

Here is the longer adjuster down at the gearbox. Fitting is very simple and it is easy to take up the slack.  Ensure that the small spring is in place between the actuator arm and the gearbox rear plate. 

                      Reversing gearbox & propshaft fitting time   www.aerocyclecars.com

As an introduction though, why not go to the Blog overview first.

The cardan joint is shown through the rear bulkhead bearing plate. Ensure that the cardan joint is fully greased prior to fitment.

The rear bearing and spacer is bolted to the rear bulkhead bearing plate, and the rear propshaft can be seen inserted into the bearing. The 10mm spacer shown behind the bearing allows the front of the cardan joint to turn freely. The spigot on the end of the propshaft which is half of a standard Moto Guzzi shaft should be inserted into the front of the cardan joint using copper slip or equivalent. Note the grease nipple on the top of the bearing, which of course needs greasing.

Another close up of the rear shaft inserted into the bearing. Note the grub screw, there is a second one out of view, and both need tightening up.

The reversing gearbox needs 120ml of 5W-40 oil. Another shot will show the filler plug on the other side of the gearbox.

Here is the front joint on the front shaft. Ensure that copper-slip or equivalent is used on the splines to the main gearbox output shaft. Prior to inserting it through the lower bulkhead panel on the gearbox output shaft, you'll find it easier to take the reversing gearbox off the inclined plinth, then to bolt the front shaft flange to the font flange of the reversing gearbox using 4 x 5/16 socket cap head bolts/spring washers/washers. Then lift the reversing gearbox on to its plinth and simultaneously insert the front shaft joint shown above, through the lower bulkhead panel and on to the main gearbox output shaft. The front propshaft is not telescopic, whereas the rear shaft is.

This shot shows the reversing gearbox mounted to the two right angled plates using 7/16th bolts/washers/nylock nuts, and 4 x  M10 25mm bolts/washers/nylock nuts. I tape across the top of the angled plinth so that the reversing gearbox and brackets do not scratch the surface.

Here we see the reversing gearbox and propshafts coupled up. Both shafts will need greasing and each has a nipple. Both shafts are fully balanced. Note that the reversing gearbox is bolted down with the flat side to the right hand side of the tunnel facing forward. Ensure that the flat of the box is adjacent to the bottom tunnel rail, you can see that the brackets are flush with the edge of the angled plinth.

Here the front shaft coupling is shown connected up to the main gearbox output shaft. You should check that it all turns freely.

                                     Steering column fitting time   www.aerocyclecars.com

As an introduction though, why not go to the Blog overview first.

The upper steering column bolts to 2 welded angled plates, the upper pair of bolts can be seen to the left and these are M8 30mm/washers/nylock nuts. Shown in the centre is the steering lock which for UK MSVA purposes is the immobiliser. An immobiliser does not have to be a steering column lock, but I choose this to be the case. Note the bolts, these are shear bolts, so do not fully tighten these until you are 100% certain as to the correct position. When fully tightened, the heads shear off, then you can only remove the bolts by drilling out. A plunger engages in a slot within the inner column. A word of warning from practical experience; I attended a UK MSVA 3 hour test one year with a client and his car, and the tester asked for proof of the immobiliser working when he withdrew the ignition key. The lock didn't lock. Fortunately, being there, I knew what to check as the tester at this stage was about to cancel the test. By unbolting the front scuttle panel I discovered the shear bolts hadn't been sheared off and I was able to move the lock slightly down the shaft to ensure that the plunger fully engaged, which it did, and the car passed the test. The moral of course, is fully check this aspect prior to the test of a vehicle. All photos on this blog are on a RHD car, unless otherwise stated.

Another view showing both the upper and lower column support plates. Final position of the column is determined once the pedals are located in the pedal box as the clutch pedal is curved to avoid the column, and it might be necessary at this stage to shim the upper location position with a washer.

The steering column passes through the circle polished dash board, and the shaped slot becomes obvious in the next few photos. At this stage the dash board is solely on its flexible mounts, (these are very simple plates which you might need to bend up a little more to ensure some flexibilty) as the scuttle is removed to enable the wiring procedure, all of which links in with the steering column.

The upper inner column splined end locates into the flexible joint of the lower column. Use copperslip or equivalent on the splines. The bolts are M8 40mm/washers/nylock nuts. Note the lower bolt has been shortened by 5mm for clearance through the hole. Clearance needs checking here under rotation once the clutch pedal has been located in the pedal box.

Likewise down at the lower end of the lower column where it joins the steering rack, again use copper slip or equivalent. Note, for clarity, the louvred steering rack cover has been removed for access.

Back up at the dashboard, the upper splined end is visible, to which the steering wheel boss and steering wheel is attached. This is clearly a RHD car, but I also build LHD and supply LHD and RHD kits and dashboards of course.

Here is the steering column attached multi lighting/horn/dim-dip/indicator switch. Note the top plate, the old ugly plate that comes with this switch has been discarded and I have these nice new stainless steel plates laser cut. Note the plug which is cut off later.

An unusual shot for a reason. Just visible in the large hole is a lug which needs cutting off. I plunge a 30mm hole saw down here, as this needs to slip over the 30mm diameter upper end of the upper steering column. I have also removed the self cancelling inner boss, as this is a smaller diameter, consequently, you are the self canceller! Small point, you won't have to do this, as I do, but best practice is don't hand hold something like this when drilling! I speak from experience...I hand held just this, and plunged a 30mm hole cutter down into my RH forefinger...consequently I have a half diameter scar on my forefinger!

Here is the complete switch in place. Note the clamp screw just visible to the far lower right. I always fit the switch into the centre of the car, so for RHD cars I use a LHD switch and vice versa, and this is important as access to the clamp screw is not possible easily if used otherwise.

Prior to fitting the switch though, you ought to fit some kind of gasket material to the edge of the switch aperture to protect the wiring that passes through.

Back to the switch and you can see why the edge of the dash board aperture ought to have the gasket type of material around it.

Next up is wiring and connecting the switch shown above, the steering column switch connections and wiring in general.