New lower mudguard stays:   www.aerocyclecars.com

As an introduction though, why not go to the Blog overview first.

Well, here we are, back on the blog (!) once again, and a Happy New Year (2017) to constructors and enthusiasts alike. It was a funny old December, UK Parcelforce lost a client's pair of bucket seats that I'd ordered and paid for, then 3 weeks later mysteriously found them again in a restaurant in London! This had held up progress, so I spent the time on my aviation interests, then went walking in Derbyshire over Christmas. So, fired up with renewed enthusiam, off we go again.

A word of warning, in my 61 years, I've discovered that enthusiasm can get the better of one. I changed wheels and front uprights/calipers/discs last year, then modified mudgards and as a consequence had to modify the mudguard stays. Curiously, having mounted a mudguard up, I then went to attach a brake line and found that my enthusiasm had completely masked the brake line entry point into the caliper. I had to rapidly re-design the lower mudguard stay, which meant waiting around 3 weeks for them to be laser cut....another delay last December.

Safety Update 24/10/18: The 20mm M6 SCH screw/bolt  that holds the front mud guard upright should be changed to a standard 8.8/12.8 SCH screw/bolt as stainless steel SCH 6mm screw/bolts in this position have been found to shear.

  Here then is the new lower stay with a 40mm diameter curve laser cut and shaped.

Close up showing the brake line entry hole previously covered up! This now necessitates new hose line fittings into the caliper which will have to be right angled. The stay might have to be reversed so the curve hangs down, not sure yet until the fittings arrive next week. These stays are supplied in a kit unpolished and will definitely look very good when polished up. On full build cars, they will be polished, so these will come off again and be refitted once done.

Reversing the stay is now the correct position.

Inserting a short banjo and bolt is WRONG. You can see that the swivel nut is hard up against the caliper.

An extra long banjo and bolt clears the caliper nicely.

I didn't like the idea of leverage, so decided to hold the flexible brake pipe using a P clip and 6mm SBH (socket button head) and nylock nut and washer on the opposite side. Mark 50mm centred from the bolt into the alloy upright, then drill a hole. Bolt up all round and check the tightness of the banjo bolt and that everything clears suitably.

From the rear of the stay, here is the P clip, nylock nut and washer. Don't forget that you'll want to polish the mudguard stays before application.