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Rear of dashboard

Linked instrument lamps, linked back to main on/off  black Lucas style light switch.

Note linked earth cables to dashboard lamps. Read my notes concerning the main indicator stalk switch.

HUBS/WHEELS

                         As an introduction though, why not go to the Blog overview first.

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Hubs/stub axles/wheels.

Specially manufactured to my specification, these are not "off the shelf " items. Splined hubs have been around since the firm Rudge Whitworth introduced them prior to WW1. Post WW1, many motor manufacturers began to use them, specifically MG and Riley in the 1930s, other manufacturers of sports cars following suit. I specifically wished to get the centre point steering/scrub radius, and in "old money" the king pin inclination angle as close as possible to the theory, which in effect is a line drawn through the top and bottom ball joints through to the steering arm ball joint, when projected, should intersect the centre of the wheel/tyre, or at least be close to it or to the tyres inner edge. Modern car wheels can more easily achieve this due to a large wheel offset.

These specially made alloy uprights use interference fit top hat inserts top and bottom into which the ball joints fit. I now modify the front top mudguard stay thread by drilling this out to 8mm all the way through, filing a flat on the opposite side, so that an 8mm bolt washer and nylock nut can be fitted.

Just a stub axle you might think, however I have these made to my own specification, again so that the wheel can be brought in on the hub to achieve the best possible KPI/scrub angle using 19 inch wire wheels.

Stub axle shown inserted into the upright.

Rear of the alloy upright showing a spacer. A nylock nut is fitted and torqued up to 50lbs.

A 5mm stainless steel spacer fits between the disc and the splined hub.

Disc/spacer/hub.

An interesting shot just to show the assembly bolted up with a wheel attached. In this shot it can be seen that the wheels are "outer laced", that is the spokes are to the outer of the wheel rim, rather than to the centre, as other wheels can be, and this brings the wheel in closer too, so that the KPI/scrub angle etc is maximised.

Now to the modification mentioned above. The tool shown inserted is a helicoil removal tool, just a triangular taper that grips the helicoil and unscrews it out. 6mm helicoils are inserted originally and I bolted mudguard stays at this point, but we've subsequently found that the 6mm bolts shear from vibration, so I decided to drill them out and hold the mudguard stay with an 8mm bolt and nylock nut.

Close up of the helicoil removal tool.

Here the upright is shown securely clamped on to the pillar drill table, enabling a perpendicular hole to be drilled. We've all tried drilling without securing things to a surface, always hold it down securely or accidents and damage can occur.

Here can be seen both uprights drilled through, before and after a flat has been filed so that a washer and nylock nut can be fitted holding the forward mudguard stay in place.

Finally the mudguard stay held by an 8mm socket cap head bolt, washer and nylock nut, which is much stronger than the original 6mm bolt in a blind hole. The mudguard stays look good when polished, and maybe the upright castings could be painted a contrasting colour?

                     As an introduction though, why not go to the Blog overview first.

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01273 843749 07976 312058

An additional tool box idea.

I did this as a one off idea for a car built in 2018. It can easily be replicated at an additional cost. It can be used as a tool box or simply somewhere to put your lunch, or a change of underpants!

Here we see a basic electrics box and instantly it can be seen that this is a much earlier donor bike model with no fuel injection system, hence no ECU, however I did fit an electronic ignition system, a Newtronics unit, through to a distributor.

I decided to make up a box from the same "propellor" motif aluminium to sit in front of the tank, so it replicates the basic dimensions of the electrics box, but is taller, 160mm from memory. I wanted it to be fully detachable from the electrics box lid, so I fitted more Dzus fasteners to allow this. 

Here is another shot and in front can be seen the conventional ignition coils.

Here is the box shown from the other side. Note the throttle and chock cable "2 into 1" adaptors, which if one is a tinkerer, allows the owner to tinker with settings etc.

A distant shot.

Well, a box has to have a lid, so I folded one up and fixed it with more Dzus fasteners, and by this time, I was jolly excited!

Lid off, showing the Dzus fastener brackets. This reminds me of one of my funny stories, well not so since it cost me more money! I had four fuel tanks made up, all nicely Tig welded etc, but I'd forgotten to take into account the curvature of the bonnet and as the tanks had square edges the bonnet wouldn't shut, so they all had to be cut, corners trimmed and welded back at an angle. Then I forgot that a LHD car needs the tank moved over the other side, and the tanks can't be reversed, so had to have special LHD tanks welded up. After a few years or so, in fact this year to be precise, I stared at a tank, and thought...silly bugger, slope both sides and weld in 4 outlets, two of which can be capped off accordingly for a fuel injected version and 3 capped off for a carburettor version. The problem is now solved, but shows that eccentricity and lack of forethought can sometimes work in opposite directions!

What the hell, a box is a box.

One last shot of my nice box, and I didn't even charge the customer for it, he was a victim of my experimentation!

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Some very inspiring close up shots of a client's car.

This car in my view, ranks as the best client finished car, in fact the best finished car. I now use different alloy uprights/calipers/mudguard stays.

Nice low angle shot. though I'd like to modify the slab fronted rack covering panel into something more reminiscent of an MG J2, so will one day!

I'm seriously into louvres for aesthetics. These are CNC stamped and I bend the bonnet halves. Note the chrome on brass vintage style bonnet catches. The plastic wing mirrors can be changed after the UK MSVA test, perhaps for vintage styled chromed mirrors.

As can be seen, this is a barrelback model, to which a spare front wheel can be attached. The barrelback model was introduced by Morgan in 1936, and all of their F types with side valve Ford engines were barrelback, though I have seen one specially modified into a 

Beetleback.

Here is what we mean by barrelback...a bit like a barrel. Different rear side lights could be used. Note the standard Moto Guzzi supplied silencers and simple fittings, though not all silencers are like this. For the UK MSVA test, the rear wheel and aero screens are left off, though they are added once the test has been passed.

Most kits and cars are the beetleback model and a barrelback is a very nice option all round.

Louvres look magnificent!

The client did his own upholstery, although I supplied the bucket seats trimmed. He made his own plywood dashboard though covered the aluminium rear bulkhead panel. The panel is detachable via Dzus fasteners, enabling the whole rear fibreglass cover removable, which is also held down by 4 Dzus fasteners.

Dashboard and interior close up. The steering wheel could be changed for a vintage styled Motalita type. The reversing gearbox lever is out of shot.

Front end shot. Note that the client has infilled the nose cone with chequered mesh. Note the "propellor" motif aluminium sheet fitted to the front of the scuttle and the fuel tank from the same material. I was inspired by the underbonnet area of many Bugattis, though there are generally "engine turned" alloy.

Front end again, louvres a plenty.

Forward looking interior shot, note detail.

The client is a stickler for detail and moved the aero screens closer to the dashboard than I normally do, and this was very simple indeed. He did this by raising the aero screen plinths on small alloy spacers.

Alloy spacers to raise the aero screens over the scuttle hums, thus moving them closer to the driver and therefore higher. Though doubled, I shall have some laser cut.

Here it can be seen that the client doubled up with spacers on the outer fitment and just a single one on the inner fitment.

Detail!

Nice front end shot. Note the polished rocker covers. On later engines in the 2000s, these covers are often painted grey.

The client made some superb armrests.

Not just a nice touch, but makes access/egress easier as we age!

Louvres again plus detail in the bonnet catch fittings, stainless steel main side panel rivets, polished alloy exhaust side clamps, and polished trim pieces. The client had his panels painted off the car, fitting the main side panels once painted, hence the stainless rivets. Talking of rivets, I recommend using 4.8mm rivets for the outer panels as the heads are almost identical in diameter to 5mm socket button head screws, and just look so much better and neater.

Overhead front view, showing very pleasant detail all round.

Front wishbone set up. Note top wishbone spacers allowing the wishbone to sit rearwards thus allowing 6.5 degrees of castor.

Stainless steel tie bar, add badges to it...after the MSVA test pass only!

The eagle spreads its wings.

1064cc V-Twin 90 degree engine.

Polished rocker covers, note the client modified "knee protector".

Front bulkhead panel.

Big pots!

MG TA style wheels with MG hex spinners....you can change these for eared spinners after the UK MSVA test.

Front end, note indicators that I fit to the headlight bowls. Quite a complicated fitment, but it ensures that  all lighting wiring goes into one place only.

Bonnet catches, stainless steel rivets, exhaust side clamps. Thats it folks, get your wallet out, and order a kit!