Odds & sods prior to powder coating. www.aerocyclecars.com

As an introduction though, why not go to the Blog overview first.

Cleko clamps and a standard body clamp. I advise that builders purchase some Cleko clamps and the "pliers" to insert them. A Cleko clamp is internally sprung loaded. Please remember that all holes in every panel (apart from the floor) will be pre-punched.

This is a de-burring tool. I use these on all pre punched holes. When drilling any additional hole in any aluminium panel it is best to de-burr prior to any rivet or bolt.

Here is the lower side trim (this is not standard in a Kit 001 or a Complete Kit, but additional). It is a curved J section. It has taken careful marking out to ensure that the locating holes through which 5mm socket button head screws line up with the side panel rivets.

An "early day" shot, but it can be seen by a couple of seconds polishing of the lower trim, just how good it will look.

This shot shows how the Dzus fastener plate in the underside of the grp rear cover is fitted. A 10mm hole has been drilled through the grp using a rotabroach cutter, which is then left in the hole as a "plug". pre-drilled 3,2mm holes in the small aluminium plate are then drilled through the grp, enlarged to 5mm, then the hole in opposite side of the grp is countersunk and a 5mm countersunk socket screw is inserted and a washer and nylock nut fitted. The rotabroach "plug" is then removed. This is all pre done for you.  

Here we see the fitted aluminium "rub-plate" and the quarter turn Dzus fastener holding the grp rear cover down to the chassis. Not shown of course, at this stage, is the internal aluminium rear cover.

Next up within a week will be shots of the chassis once returned from the powder coaters. There has been a delay due to holidays. Once powder coated, the build up begins in earnest, and real progress becomes quicker.

DZUS Fasteners, rear bulkhead, rear cover. www.aerocyclecars.com

As an introduction though, why not go to the Blog overview first.

This is a Dzus faster bracket welded directly to the upper chassis side member. These are used to secure the rear fibreglass/GRP cover.

Here is the same Dzus fastener bracket complete with the retaining spring slid on to it.

Here is a Dzus fastener. It is a quarter turn fastener.

In this shot, the Dzus quarter turn fastener is shown fully turned compressing the retaining spring.

The brackets are used as a template to drill through the aluminium bulkhead, or anything else. The hole is 14mm, so a 14mm rotabroach cutter is used to centre up a dot impression which is then centre punched and conventionally drilled out to 10mm, allowing the Dzus fastener to pass through.

Here is the aluminium laser cutupper rear bulkhead, showing the now 10mm holes drilled through. In a later post we shall see the upper rear compartment doors hinged and fitted.

The front faces of the Dzus fasteners. The upper rear bulkhead panel is still covered in protective plastic.

Here is the upper rear bulkhead and the rear fibreglass/GRP cover in situ. A foremost Dzus fastener is visible and four of these hold the cover on to the vehicle. This latter aspect will be covered in more depth in a future post.

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Scuttle work. www.aerocyclecars.com

As an introduction though, why not go to the Blog overview first.

Here is the front face of the scuttle. The large hole cut out is to enable access into the scuttle, for example, to gain access to the wiring loom, instruments etc, plus the steering column. You'll notice that this then gets panelled with the polished propellor motif laser cut panels all of which can be removed.

This photo shows a riv-nut tool inserting riv nuts into the flange face of the front of the scuttle. I use three different riv-nut tools, one of which is an air tool. This particular tool shown in the photo is not the best ergonomic of tools in my view, as it requires a ratchet tool on top and the distance between the centre hand hold and the top ratchet is too great. It is probably better with aluminium riv nuts, but I use steel riv nuts throughout, and I prefer the ribbed type. I'll show you the other two types of riv-nut tools in due course.

So, here is the front face of the scuttle fitted with the three panels. All three are removable, the panel shown to the left in the photo has a large slot through which the steering column emerges. The panel shown to the right has a small slot through which the fuse box is fitted. These panels are fully fitted in both Kit 001 and the Comprehensive Kit. Please remember, the "propellor" panels fitted to the scuttle are standard fitment, those to the lower bulkhead are at additional cost.

This the cockpit side of the scuttle prior to fitting the glove box and the wiring loom etc. Once again, you can see the aperture that can be useful once the panels are removed from under the bonnet. 

Here we have a circle polished/engine turned dashboard panel. This is located into the scuttle flange using M5 socket button head screws (SBH). The main aperture is for the glove box door which will be fitted later in the build. To the right are holes for 80mm main instruments, smaller switches, and the more rectangular hole is for the steering column and column lighting/horn/dim dip switch. The dashboard is an extra, but is supplied in the Complete Kit, and in full builds of course. 

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Further panelling prior to powdercoating. www.aerocyclecars.com

As an introduction though, why not go to the Blog overview first.

The rounded rear end of the beetleback is simply pulled around the shaped rear end of the chassis. Eventually it is riveted and the main body side panels overlap and bolt into riv nuts in a chassis upright. This will become obvious once the chassis is back from powdercoating and body build up commences in earnest. 

This is the electrics box which bolts down to the tunnel and 2 side decking pieces. The large holes eventually have large grommets inserted as the cabling to and from the fuses and relays passes through them.

Here is the electrics box again with joggled side panels either side. The joggles allow for a lid to the electrics box to sit flush.

This shot shows the LHS of the central tunnel.

Here is the RHS of the tunnel, and this shaped panel is removable. I shall display this feature further into the build. The slot on top is for the handbrake, and the sloping hole allows the main gear lever to protrude.

Here are the two front bulkhead panels from the shiny polished propellor motif sheet. The two holes in the RHS panel are for the steering column and the main front propshaft.

Front bulkhead panels again. These will look superb contrasting with black powdercoating.

Don't forget, all of the panelling shown so far is all done by me irrespective of which kit you purchase. You do not need to cut any panel, and all panels have pre-punched holes through which you will drill in order to insert rivets.

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Internal rear cover bodywork. www.aerocyclecars.com

As an introduction though, why not go to the Blog overview first.

Remember, whichever kit you purchase, either Kit 001 or a complete comprehensive kit, all aluminium panels are accurately cut to fit, and will be fitted by you, you have no aluminium to cut/trim whatsoever, it is all done for you. Of course, if purchasing a complete car ready for the road, it goes without saying saying that all panels are bonded and rivetted on in the construction process.

Here is the detachable rear end of a beetleback chassis.

Here is the beetleback rear end bolted to the chassis.

This shot shows the beginning of the internal rear cover.

Here is the rear cover attached to the chassis.

Another shot of the now one piece rear cover which is attached eventually by six 6mm bolts. This will become visible again when I post shots of the completed bodywork prior to the fitment of the fibreglass/grp components.

The cover lifts off in one piece for general build up and maintenance. It comprises 7 parts rivetted together.

This is an interesting panel. I decided to cover the lower front bulkhead cross member with a propellor embossed aluminium section. The panels above it, left and right will also be from the same material. This build is a special one with chrome 19 inch knock on wire wheels, and these panels will compliment the wheels and other polished items and will be visible from the front of the car.

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