Fitting exhaust side pipes and the side clamps.   www.aerocyclecars.com

As an introduction though, why not go to the Blog overview first.

In the previous post at the end we saw the exhaust header pipes bolted on, and now it is the time to initially trial mount the exhaust side pipes and clamps. When I say initially, you might think, why not simply do it all in one go and wait until the side panels are fitted. My advice is to do it the following way. Firstly, take a look at the above picture, and on the left is shown a clamp set in two halves, and on the right, what we'll see once clamped and bolted up. Disregard the shape of the front part on the right, as this is the item used by the machinist when turning the front halves.

Identify the chassis mounting brackets for the clamps, forward one shown above and rearward one shown below.

Place a strip of 1 inch masking tape on each bracket point shown in the above two pictures.

Notice the block of wood screwed to a piece of 25mm square aluminium box. The block of timber is 110mm high and with the base of the block flush with the floor, this sets the height of the side pipe. Similarly, set another block arrangement close to the rear chassis bracket. You'll have noticed that when sliding the side pipe on to the header pipe, that there is a tendency for it to slope downwards. There is a bit of spring in the pipe and header, and you'll need to gently lift it/force it slightly up to rest upon the blocks. As you are doing this you'll also need to "relax" the header pipe in the exhaust outlet in the cylinder head so that you can turn the pipe as required, enabling it to move close to the chassis and to sit on the blocks. Insert a rear part of the 2 part clamp behind each side pipe, and wrapping a piece of rag around the pipe, gently clamp the pipe to the chassis upright. With a pen draw around the clamp rear. Once done, drill through the top and bottom holes of the clamp rear with a 5mm drill bit. Repeat this for the rear most clamp further down the chassis. When done, release the clamps then remove the side pipe. De-burr the holes in the chassis brackets, front and rear, then temporarily bolt the rear half to the brackets, then drill a 6mm hole through the centre hole of the rear part of the clamp. Remove the rear halves, then oversize the holes by 5.5mm and 6.5mm drill bits respectively, enabling a bit of movement when finally fitting up through the side panels. 

This shot shows a rear part of the clamp fitted. In the final fitment, nylock nuts should be used.

These last two shots show the final result.

Having reached this stage, remember that the main side panel still needs to be fitted. Having done all of the above, the whole lot needs to be removed, and will not be refitted until the side panels are finally fitted. Now, further advice, don't be in a  hurry to finally fit the main side panels, as in the build you need maximum access. You'll find it easier to fit the seats, the wiring loom and other bits and pieces without the LHS side panel on, and likewise, you'll find it easier to fit the reversing gearbox and propshaft without the RHS panel fitted.

Anyway, having said the above, when you've fitted the main side panels permanently, this is the time to refit the exhaust side pipes. Having previously drilled the holes in the chassis brackets for the side pipe clamps, back drill through these holes into the side panels, and my immediate advice at this stage is to hold a scrap piece of aluminium/plywood etc on the outside when drilling through. Once done, bolt everything up accordingly, and don't forget to return to the flanges on the exhaust header pipes and tighten up the screws.

At the start of this exercise, I mentioned about flexing the side pipes/header pipes in order to get them to sit at the right height. Once the engine has been run and the pipes have gone through a heating and cooling stage, they'll naturally form and remain in that position and relax accordingly. I know this from having simply removed the header pipes from my old demonstrator car whilst leaving the side pipes and silencers in position, and simply refitting them.

Of course, you'll need to repeat this exercise on the opposite side, and I'd allow a total of 6 hours, say a whole day for this entire fitment.

 Fitting rear wheel, swing arm, rear shock absorbers, then front uprights, suspension, wheels, engine/gearbox and exhaust headers.   www.aerocyclecars.com

As an introduction though, why not go to the Blog overview first.

This shot shows the rear wheel, swing arm, rear brake plate, and rear shock absorbers fitted in as a unit. Firstly, the swing arm (and this is an early short swing arm) is fitted up. This is a fairly straightforward exercise, but take a look at the small swing arm pins that locate into the swing arm. These are very fine threads, 20mm x 1mm, so insert them very carefully using copper slip or equivalent. A word of warning here. If you are using a later California bike, the swing arm pins are larger but the bearing surfaces on both types are identical. On early donor bikes, just use the swing pins as you find them, however if using a later donor bike with the larger swing arm pins, you cannot use these and will need to purchase the earlier type. The part number for these earlier T3 type swing arm pins is 14547001. Notice the new 18 inch spoked Akront wheel complete with Avon tyre. At this stage neither the standard rear brake not the parking brake have been fitted. 

Shown here is the alloy front upright assembly attached via ball joints to upper and lower wishbones, plus the shock absorbers and springs fitted. In a later post, I will disassemble an upright assembly and go through it in detail. When you purchase a front suspension kit, the upright assemblies are fully and loosely assembled, however it is essential that you fully follow my printed instructions and reassemble. I build them up initially to check and to add shims where necessary. The bolt up procedure is very simple.

Here is a view across the front end and what is immediately apparent is the castor angle, where the upper wishbone is offset from the centre line to the rear, and in this case, the castor angle is 6.5 degrees from the vertical.

Left hand front wheel and octagonal spinner fitted. These are the chromed special wheels, the standard ones are simply powder coated silver. If you wish for the chromed wheels, they simply cost a little more, so let me know in good time! In another blog post I will show the 2 different types side by side. Black ones are also available, and in fact, they can be painted any colour at additional cost. These wheels are MG TA type, designed in the mid 1930s for the MG TA (a real classic!) and are truly vintage. Morgan themselves use just the very same wheel.

The right hand wheel. These chrome wheels really do show the vehicle off to a high standard.

The engine and gearbox has been fitted. Just two 12mm bolts hold it in. You will require an extra person to assist you, but we always simply pick the engine up by bolting a pair of brackets into the four 10mm holes above the gearbox, inserting a 240mm long M12 bolt, enabling a hand hold each side, then one's other hand placed around the barrel, then a lift. I always place a blanket over the steering rack if prior fitted, or just over the mounts if not fitted. It is also useful to slide a trolley jack under the engine to steady it and rock it back or forth whilst inserting the 160mm M12 rear bolt, and the 240mm M12 front bolt.

The exhaust header pipes are shown fitted together with the special stainless steel flanges and dome head/acorn nuts, spring washers and normal stainless steel washers. I recommend using new exhaust gaskets and not the ones from your donor bike. My reason for fitting the headers at this stage, is so that I can trial fit the side pipes and clamps into the side clamp brackets that are welded to the chassis, and all prior to the final fitment of the main side panels. The main side panels need to come off again shortly to facilitate fitment of other items, so best to go through this whole procedure whilst the main side panels are still temporarily fitted. In another blog post, all will become apparent as I fit the side pipes. Notice also the front "badge" bar which is also a main front end tie bar. You'll notice that the steering rack and column are yet to be fitted.

Suddenly, this stage depicts excitement as the build is much nearer fruition. The mechanical build up is always quick, but wiring and fitment of all of the other things now take a little time. It is all very rewarding, so take your time.  

  

                              Fitting rear rounded panel, rear lower inner panels, nose cone, &                                                                       wishbones. www.aerocyclecars.com

As an introduction though, why not go to the Blog overview first.

Here is the rear rounded panel about to be pulled round and fitted.

The panel has been pulled round, I've omitted showing cleko pins, but I've used 4.8mm rivets that are extremely close in size to the 5mm SBH screws. At this stage I've not shown how the rear rounded end simply comes off and is refitted, this will happen shortly.

The lower rear panels are shown fitted in this shot and the rounded rear end of the beetleback can be seen from within.

Seen from above, the rear inner side panels are fully riveted. Forward of these are the detachable panels that allow access to the swinging arm pivot pins etc.

Next in this batch is the fitting of the nose cone. This is straightforward, and I jig this into position and secure with 4 x 6mm bolts and washers into riv nuts.

This shot shows the small pattern piece that initially determines the distance between the scuttle and the nose cone. It is adjusted in the bonnet fitting sequence.

I decided to commence the mechanical build up at this stage and here we see the top and lower wishbones in place. Ensure that copper-slip or equivalent is used when bolting the wishbones on, it will make dismantling easier if and when required.

This is a top wishbone adjuster enabling adjustment of camber without removing the top ball joint. 

The top wishbone is shown fully shimmed to the rear of the bracket. This allows maximum castor of 6.5 degrees. The top bolt and tube is a crush tube.

This shot shows the shock absorber and spring fitted together with spacers. Again, ensure that copper slip or equivalent is used on the bolts.

Trial fitting the side panels, then lower and upper trim pieces. www.aerocyclecars.com

As an introduction though, why not go to the Blog overview first.

Firstly the side panels are trial fitted after 3.2mm holes have been punched at 100 mm centres. I wanted the 5mm socket button head screws (SBH) to line up on the lower edge of the side panels with the rivets at the upper edge. This all needs careful marking out. 5mm riv nuts have been fitted into the lower chassis member then oversized holes in the side panel have been cut with a 16mm rotabroach cutter. I could have made these 12mm but decided to give plenty of clearance when fitting the side panels due to the curvature. Intermediate holes are also drilled at 100mm centres and these holes will have a 3.2mm rivet inserted. The cirvature of the lower side trim just allows the head of the rivet due to a concave form in the trim.

Here is the front end of the trim piece fitted into place with a 5mm SBH screw. The front edge of the trim will be rubbed down to a smooth finish. You can see how it forms over the edge of the floor panel too. Please note, this piece of trim is not included in either a Kit 001 or the Complete Kit, it is an extra feature.

At the same time, the front detachable panels are fitted. As can be seen this panel is held on with 5 5mm SBH screws, and beneath the panel are 5mm riv nuts.

The top trim is fitted in a similar fashion, also using 5mm riv nuts and 5mm SBH screws.

Another view of the top trim plus the top panels which are held down variously by the top trim 5mm SBH screws, further 5mm SBH screws, and finally by the fuel tank. The removable panel to the electrics box will eventually be held down by Dzus fasteners.

Finally here is a shot of the "propellor" motif front bulkhead panels, now fully fitted into place.These "propellor motif" panels shown here are not standard, thus they do not come in a Kit 001 or a Complete Kit. The main side panels are not fully fitted permanently at this stage, since it is important during various stages of the build to ensure very good access for the mechanical build up.

Riveting the tunnel side panels before the floor panels. www.aerocyclecars.com

As an introduction though, why not go to the Blog overview first.

With the chassis returned from the powder coaters, attachment of the panels can begin with this particular build. Prior to fitting the floor panel it is important to assess the attachment of other internal panels, in fact, the floor panel is not the first panel to be fitted at all. In order to drill and rivet the tunnel side panels good access is required to the lower chassis member, and this would not be possible if the floor is inadvertently attached first.

This shot shows the LHS tunnel panel being drilled, the chassis is on its side and the hand holding the drill is where the floor will eventually be positioned, so it can be seen why it is important at this stage not to attach the floor first.

This shot shows the floor panel being riveted to the chassis. 

Prior to this, the floor panel needs to be drilled at 50mm centres along all chassis rails that it makes contact with. In Kit 001 or a Complete Kit, the floor panel will be temporarily fitted to the chassis by 11 6mm bolts into rivnuts. 

I now centre punch mark where all holes need to be drilled. The holes need to be pilot drilled using 3.2mm drill bits then opened out to 4.8mm as we'll be using 4.8mm rivets. 

The procedure is as follows. Drill where the centre punch marks are, ensuring that the floor is correctly positioned (it can't be out of position if the 11 bolts are in place), then open out to 4.8mm. Remove the floor panel and deburr  all holes, and clean swarf from the chassis.

Using the supplied Sikaflex adhesive, run a bead of mastic all around the chassis members, centrally, over the holes. Ideally you'll need to lift the floor panel with two people, and carefully position it back on, ensuring that you don't smear or smudge the beads of mastic. With the floor panel sitting correctly, refit the 11 bolts, then start to fit rivets into every hole. The rivets should drop in, but you might need to push them hard to line up with the holes, and a suitable tool is shown which is a long 4mm socket. 

You are going to be riveting about 280 4.8mm rivets in total, so be prepared. If you do not have air facilities (compressor and air rivet gun) you'll need a "lazy tongs" extending rivet gun. The exercise of fitting the major floor panel and the 2 smaller floor panels to the rear of the chassis is a minimum of 4 hours, however, allow a whole day for this. 

Here can be seen the main floor panel fitted together with the rear left and right panels.

From inside the chassis, the floor panels are seen attached together with the LHS tunnel sides which are permanently fitted, and the front bulkhead panels.

The body work is now beginning to take shape.

  

Odds & sods prior to powder coating. www.aerocyclecars.com

As an introduction though, why not go to the Blog overview first.

Cleko clamps and a standard body clamp. I advise that builders purchase some Cleko clamps and the "pliers" to insert them. A Cleko clamp is internally sprung loaded. Please remember that all holes in every panel (apart from the floor) will be pre-punched.

This is a de-burring tool. I use these on all pre punched holes. When drilling any additional hole in any aluminium panel it is best to de-burr prior to any rivet or bolt.

Here is the lower side trim (this is not standard in a Kit 001 or a Complete Kit, but additional). It is a curved J section. It has taken careful marking out to ensure that the locating holes through which 5mm socket button head screws line up with the side panel rivets.

An "early day" shot, but it can be seen by a couple of seconds polishing of the lower trim, just how good it will look.

This shot shows how the Dzus fastener plate in the underside of the grp rear cover is fitted. A 10mm hole has been drilled through the grp using a rotabroach cutter, which is then left in the hole as a "plug". pre-drilled 3,2mm holes in the small aluminium plate are then drilled through the grp, enlarged to 5mm, then the hole in opposite side of the grp is countersunk and a 5mm countersunk socket screw is inserted and a washer and nylock nut fitted. The rotabroach "plug" is then removed. This is all pre done for you.  

Here we see the fitted aluminium "rub-plate" and the quarter turn Dzus fastener holding the grp rear cover down to the chassis. Not shown of course, at this stage, is the internal aluminium rear cover.

Next up within a week will be shots of the chassis once returned from the powder coaters. There has been a delay due to holidays. Once powder coated, the build up begins in earnest, and real progress becomes quicker.

DZUS Fasteners, rear bulkhead, rear cover. www.aerocyclecars.com

As an introduction though, why not go to the Blog overview first.

This is a Dzus faster bracket welded directly to the upper chassis side member. These are used to secure the rear fibreglass/GRP cover.

Here is the same Dzus fastener bracket complete with the retaining spring slid on to it.

Here is a Dzus fastener. It is a quarter turn fastener.

In this shot, the Dzus quarter turn fastener is shown fully turned compressing the retaining spring.

The brackets are used as a template to drill through the aluminium bulkhead, or anything else. The hole is 14mm, so a 14mm rotabroach cutter is used to centre up a dot impression which is then centre punched and conventionally drilled out to 10mm, allowing the Dzus fastener to pass through.

Here is the aluminium laser cutupper rear bulkhead, showing the now 10mm holes drilled through. In a later post we shall see the upper rear compartment doors hinged and fitted.

The front faces of the Dzus fasteners. The upper rear bulkhead panel is still covered in protective plastic.

Here is the upper rear bulkhead and the rear fibreglass/GRP cover in situ. A foremost Dzus fastener is visible and four of these hold the cover on to the vehicle. This latter aspect will be covered in more depth in a future post.

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